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Exeter was founded in about AD 50 by the Romans, who gave the city the name of Isca. The Devon city’s long and often turbulent history is evident today in its architecture, although the Germans attempted to destroy much of the physical evidence in 1942. Parts of the Roman city walls - much fortified in the Norman era - still stand, and can best be seen around Southernhay and Paul Street. In Anglo-Saxon times Exeter flourished, but was repeatedly sacked by the Danes, and eventually, in 1068, captured by the Normans. William the Conqueror promptly built a castle of the distinctive local sandstone; the ruins of the castle walls, gatehouse and Athelstan’s tower now form part of the aptly named Rougemount (‘red hill’) gardens. Thereafter, Exeter flourished from the proceeds of the cloth trade and from continental trade through its port, until 1290, when the Countess of Devon built a weir across the river to spite the citizens.
In 1563, however - predating the canal era by two centuries - the Exeter Ship Canal opened and trade was restored, so that Daniel Defoe could write in around 1724 ‘The city derives a very great correspondence with Holland, as also directly Portugal, Spain and Italy; shipping off vast quantities of woollen-manufacturers…’ Nowadays other industries have superseded shipping and the historic Quayside is now home to cafes, restaurants, shops and flats. Exeter Cathedral dates from the early medieval period, apart from the two towers, which are Norman. Its magnificent west front has tiers of figures of kings, queens and angels. Around the cathedral precinct, some of Exeter’s old buildings survived both the Luftwaffe and modern development.
Exeter has a number of other interesting churches, including the Norman St Mary Arches and St Mary Steps; the latter features a 17th Century clock with moving figures that strike the hour and the quarters - nicknamed the Hickory Dickory Dock Clock as it is said to have inspired the well-known nursery rhyme. Exeter was also unusual in that its man-made water supply waschanelled to the city in underground passages; these can still be seen in Princesshay today. Exeter University occupies an attractive campus just outside the city.
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